If we rephrase “gentle on the skin,” it means maintaining the skin barrier, avoiding inflammation, and allowing long-term use. Organic products do not represent a rejection of synthetic ingredients; rather, they are a choice that considers ingredient sourcing, ecological impact, and the gentleness of formulation, for the benefit of both skin and the planet. This article is structured into ten chapters covering the meaning of organic certification, the dermatological science of plant-derived ingredients, optimization by skin type, practical guidance for cleansing, moisturising, and sun protection, the safe use of essential oils, and packaging and sustainability. Steering clear of marketing language, it focuses solely on evidence-based actions grounded in ingredients, concentration, pH, stability, and compatibility.

Chapter 1: Why Organic?—Concepts, Certification, and the Basics of Risk Management

The term “organic” is often oversimplified as “natural = safe, synthetic = harmful.” In reality, skin responds to molecules, their concentrations, and contact time, not their origin. Therefore, organic is not a “universal pass”; it should be understood as a comprehensive quality system encompassing traceability, pesticide/residual solvent management, biodegradability, ethical sourcing, and restrained fragrance design. Major international certifications (e.g., COSMOS, Ecocert, USDA Organic) define minimum ingredient ratios, manufacturing standards, lists of prohibited/restricted substances, and labelling rules. While certification can serve as an indicator of quality, the final product’s irritation potential and allergen risk are determined by the overall formulation. It is essential to evaluate the INCI (ingredient list), pH, preservation design, and oxidative stability together.

From a dermatological perspective, the value of organic products lies in “gentle surfactants” and “lipid composition compatibility.” For example, jojoba seed oil, which is primarily composed of wax esters, closely resembles sebum and is suitable for replacement moisturisation. Un saponifiables in shea butter and cocoa butter, though present in small amounts, contribute to anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects and help align the stratum corneum lamellae. However, natural does not automatically mean non-irritating. Terpenes in essential oils (e.g., limonene, linalool) can become sensitising upon oxidation, so controlling concentration, phototoxicity, and oxidation is crucial. Plants containing citrus or furanocoumarins (e.g., bergamot) require extra caution, avoiding daytime use or high-concentration blends.

Furthermore, preservative design cannot be overlooked. While formulations minimising synthetic preservatives may seem appealing, water-containing products inevitably require microbial control. Organic approaches often use organic acid salts, high concentrations of glycerin, or fermentation-derived preservative blends, all of which function effectively only within their optimal pH range. Deviations from this pH can compromise preservation, potentially becoming a source of skin issues. In other words, “gentleness” depends not only on low irritation but also on hygienic stability.

Finally, it is worth addressing the common perception that “organic = expensive.” What matters is not the unit price but the overall cost in terms of efficacy, sustainability, and traceability. Considering usage amount, turnover rate, and the risk of disposal due to oxidation or degradation, designing a minimal rotation that can be fully used represents true gentleness for both the skin and the environment.

Chapter 2: Dermatological Science of Key Organic Ingredients—Oils, Floral Waters, Plant Extracts, and Gentle Surfactants

Oils (Emollients)

Oils are the cornerstone of organic formulations. Their behaviour is determined by fatty acid composition, unsaponifiables, and iodine value (degree of unsaturation).

• Jojoba Seed Oil: Primarily composed of wax esters, it is oxidation-resistant and mimics sebum, making it excellent for replacement moisturisation. Lightweight yet providing a smooth film, it is easy to adjust—e.g., avoiding the T-zone in combination skin and spot-applying to the cheeks.
  
• Argan Kernel Oil: With a balanced ratio of oleic and linoleic acids and containing squalene and tocopherols, it contributes to antioxidant protection. Suitable for nighttime care of dry or mature skin.
  
• Shea Butter: A high-melting, semi-solid fat. In addition to stearic and oleic acids, its unsaponifiables provide minor anti-inflammatory effects. Applied thinly as “filler” for the stratum corneum lamellae, it helps reinforce the skin barrier.
  
• Evening Primrose Oil / Rosehip Oil: Rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids such as γ-linolenic acid and linolenic acid, offering high functionality but vulnerable to oxidation. Use in small amounts, store in dark, cool places, and consume soon after opening.
  

Floral Waters (Hydrosols)

Floral waters contain water-soluble aromatic compounds from distillation and are gentler than essential oils. Rose water provides minor antioxidant effects and mild astringency via its volatile phenols, while neroli and lavender hydrosols are suited for soothing. However, their preservation is relatively fragile; they should not be stored alone for long periods, and opened bottles should be kept in a cool place.

Plant Extracts

The behaviour of plant extracts varies depending on the extraction solvent (glycerin, propanediol, water, or oil). Centella asiatica (CICA) contains triterpenes such as madecassoside and asiaticoside, contributing to anti-inflammatory and wound-healing effects; calendula flavonoids help reduce redness; green tea and rosemary polyphenols provide antioxidant benefits. Mixing extracts does not always produce additive effects—stability and irritation are best managed by focusing on a few high-efficacy extracts while considering total solids, pH, and solubility.

Gentle Surfactants

In cleansing and facial washing, avoid strongly anionic, highly degreasing surfactants. Focus on amino acid-based surfactants (e.g., sodium cocoyl glutamate), acyl methyl taurates, and betaine derivatives. In organic formulations, sugar-based surfactants (e.g., decyl glucoside) are also commonly used; because their foam is less stable, shorter contact time is key. The pH should be weakly acidic to neutral to match the stratum corneum. A “tight” or overly stripped feeling after washing should be considered a negative outcome.

Preservation, Oxidation, and Stability

This is where the limitations of organic products become apparent. Adding antioxidants (e.g., vitamin E), using opaque containers, and minimising air exposure (pump or airless systems) help reduce oxidation-related odours, discolouration, and sensitisation risks. Water-based items primarily rely on organic acid preservatives, so maintaining the optimal pH range is essential. Homemade blends are difficult to manage hygienically and are not recommended for beginners.

Chapter 3: Organic Skincare Design by Skin Type—Practical Approaches for Dry, Sensitive, Oily, Combination, and Mature Skin

Dry Skin

The main concerns for dry skin are cracks in the stratum corneum lamellae and increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Apply rose or neroli hydrosol evenly to the surface, then build a water-retaining network with humectants (glycerin, propanediol, or aloe vera juice). Layer a ceramide-containing natural emulsion or a small blend of shea butter and jojoba oil by spot application, then spread to cover the area. At night, add 1–2 drops of argan oil with tocopherol, focusing on the high points of the cheeks and around the mouth. Thick application of highly unsaturated oils alone can promote oxidation and roughness; the key is thin, broad coverage.

Sensitive Skin

The goal for sensitive skin is to block irritation pathways and calm micro-inflammation. Keep the total essential oil concentration at 0.1–0.3%, avoiding oxidation-prone aromatics like linalool and limonene. Use water-based extracts of calendula, chamomile, or centella to soothe, and rely on low-reactivity oils such as jojoba or squalane. Cleansing should be done with sugar- or amino-acid-based surfactants for 30–45 seconds at 32–34 °C. Following a “free-from” approach—avoiding fragrance, colorants, and excessive alcohol—while reducing the number of products and contact frequency helps maintain calm skin.

Oily Skin

The key for oily skin is “replace, not strip.” In the morning, cleanse briefly with lukewarm water and a mild cleanser, limit toner to light humectants, and use a minimal amount of jojoba oil for replacement. Avoid wide application of heavy butters or high-melting-point waxes, as they can accentuate pore shadows. Use green tea or rosemary antioxidants to reduce sebum oxidation, and niacinamide (including natural sources) to regulate sebum production. Once or twice a week, apply clay (kaolin) to the T-zone for a short time, and increase moisturisation the same day to prevent rebound.

Combination Skin

Apply “by map”: inner cheeks—more water + adequate oil; bridge of the nose—less water + very thin oil; jawline—minimise friction. Even with the same formulation, adjusting the amount per area improves stability. Morning routine: hydrosol mist → thin layer of emulsion → sunscreen; night: spot-apply oils on the cheeks. Avoid a uniform matte finish, as it can emphasise texture and make pores more visible; fine-tune with the quality of the sheen.

Mature Skin (Loss of Firmness)

Key strategies focus on the triad of oxidation, glycation, and UV exposure. Reinforce the base with lamellar repair using argan and shea butter, and inhibit sebum oxidation with polyphenols (grape, pomegranate, green tea) and vitamin E. At night, use a low-concentration plant-based retinoid-like approach (e.g., bakuchiol), gradually increasing from every other day to daily. Be cautious of interactions with total essential oil concentration, and avoid changing multiple variables at once.

Adjustments for Seasonal and Menstrual Cycle Variations

• Summer: Reduce toner by about 30% and use a lighter oil phase.
  
• Winter: Within 3 minutes after bathing, spot-apply shea butter or jojoba oil to lock in moisture.
  
• During cyclical sebum increase: add a cleanser only in the morning, and apply a very thin layer of clay to the T-zone.
  

“Gentleness” arises from minimal irritation points, reproducible stability, and a design that can be fully used. Translate organic skincare into the language of each skin type, and make one-notch adjustments according to area, season, and cycle. This is the kind of gentleness that can be sustained over time.

Chapter 4: The Science of Cleansing and Facial Washing—Remove What’s Necessary Without Over-Stripping

Cleansing and facial washing, while the entry point of skincare, are also the highest-risk steps for the skin. When choosing organic products, the basics are: surfactants that are not too strong, pH close to the skin barrier, and short contact time.

Fundamental Principles

• What to remove: sweat, part of the sebum, makeup pigments, and environmental pollutants.
  
• What to retain: stratum corneum water, natural moisturizing factors (NMF), intercellular lipids, and the foundation of the sebum film.
  

Whether this “selective removal” is achieved greatly affects post-cleansing redness and dryness.

Ingredients and Formulation

Organic cleansers often use amino acid-based surfactants (e.g., sodium cocoyl glutamate) or sugar-based surfactants (e.g., decyl glucoside). These are highly compatible with the stratum corneum and help prevent over-stripping of oils.

Choose a cleansing product based on your skin type and lifestyle:

• Light makeup / dry-prone skin → milk or gel cleansers.
  
• Heavy makeup / oily skin → oil or balm cleansers.
  

Emulsify thoroughly, then rinse with lukewarm water at 32–34 °C. Hot water over-strips sebum, while water that’s too cold can leave surfactants behind.

Key Points for Use

• Keep cleansing contact time within 60–90 seconds.
  
• Facial washing should be limited to 30–45 seconds.
• Let the foam “roll” over the skin to minimise friction.
  
• Use a towel only with a gentle pressing motion.
  

Ultimately, what matters is the reproducibility of performing the routine under the same conditions every day. This helps stabilise pores and redness.

Chapter 5: Moisturising Layering—Lock in Water, Fill Gaps, Avoid Over-Application

Moisturising is not simply making the skin feel “hydrated”; it is a scientific process that stabilises stratum corneum water content and repairs lamellar structures.

The Three Principles

1. Lock in Water (Humectant)
   Use glycerin or sodium hyaluronate to retain moisture within the stratum corneum.
   
2. Fill Gaps (Emollient/Occlusive)
   Reinforce intercellular spaces with ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids.
   
3. Avoid Over-Application
   Excessive layering increases friction and exposure to preservatives, which can actually cause irritation.
   

Product Design

Ideally, the routine should be completed with 2–3 products.
Example:

• Morning → Niacinamide-containing toner + ceramide emulsion
  
• Night → Hyaluronic acid serum + shea butter cream
  

Zoning is also important. Apply thicker layers on the cheeks and around the mouth, and lighter layers on the T-zone. For areas prone to friction, such as the sides of the nose and cheekbones, spot-apply petroleum jelly for protection.

Evaluation Methods

• Tightness 5 minutes after washing my face
  
• Flakiness at midday and shine in the evening
  
• Evenness of skin texture the next morning
  

Based on these criteria, we will fine-tune the necessary ingredients and their amounts.

Chapter 6: Ultraviolet Rays and Antioxidants: Double Protection Against Damage

Enlarged pores, dark spots, fine lines… many of these are linked to photoaging caused by ultraviolet rays. Even if it’s organic, sunscreen is essential.

UV protection

• Focus more on PA than SPF (UVA protection influences skin ageing).
  
• Apply an adequate amount every morning, and reapply lightly every 2–3 hours when outdoors.
  
• Choose a lightweight, easily spreadable texture, prioritising “something you can use daily.”
  

Use of antioxidants in combination

Reactive oxygen species generated by UV rays and air pollution promote sebum oxidation and inflammation.

• Vitamin C Derivatives
  
• Polyphenols (green tea and rosemary extracts)
  
• Fullerene
  

By adding just one of these to your morning skincare routine, you can reduce sebum oxidation and dullness.

Protection against friction and environmental stress

Contact with masks, clothing, or pressure from a smartphone can also cause chronic inflammation. Non-cosmetic measures—like changing mask materials or avoiding stiff collars—directly help stabilise redness.

Final Chapter: Summary – Achieving “Consistent Gentleness” with Organic Skincare

Summarising the content so far, the key to improving skin with organic products can be distilled into three points.

1. Cleansing should be kept to a minimum, preserving what needs to stay. The basics are “short duration, mild acidity, and zero friction” rather than strength.
   
2. Use a few highly effective moisturisers and improve precision through zoning. Maintain hydration and repair the lamellar structure with 2–3 products, adjusting by area.
   
3. During the day, adopt a dual approach with UV protection and antioxidants. Use sunscreen daily in adequate amounts with reapplication, and add one antioxidant product.
   

The true value of organic products lies not in the “naturally derived” label, but in formulations that are gentle on the skin and consistently usable. Repeating care with the same quality every day is the gentlest skincare of all.